Well, I went back to Publics today.
The one in the video is a wave of the first kind: "sluggish and somewhat slow"...
Imagine how good it is when it's of the second kind: "a fright train that takes the surfer on a board and body challenging speed run, and brings an occasional tube section"... like the one I had yesterday!
Just turn the volume down, because I had no time to edit it.
Here's another problem I'm experiencing in Oahu: I don't have enough time to do all the things I would like to do!
For example, today I had two surf and one windsurf sessions (and a nap). And now it's almost 11pm, I should be sleeping, but I'm posting... I just love blogging!
You guys so lucky...
Enjoy the video. Welcome to the Oahu south shore...
PS. This post is dedicated to the Gopro guys, who with their amazing toy make things like this possible.
It's also dedicated to Keola Rapoza (who I never met, but he's the shaper of my 8.6) for the same exact reason.
PPS. Today's wave count.
windsurfing: 19
surfing: 12
total of the day: 31
Totals up to date.
windsurfing: 57
surfing: 65
Grand total: 122
PPPS. Life is fantastic.
PPPPS. This blog rocks.
WAAAAAIT! I forgot I got some photos too taken with the regular Gopro.
Nose riding on a two feet over head high beauty. (click on the photo, it's worth it)
My new surfing buddies.
PPPPPS. From the NOAA site: Outlook through Saturday Jun 13: current south swell will peak through Monday. A larger south swell expected Tuesday night will slowly decline through the rest of the week. This second swell is expected to generate surf at or above the 8-foot threshold.
Oh - my - god.
5 comments:
Sweeeeeet post this one really gave me the feel of how much fun you’re having.
Are you feeling restricted only having the 8’6 and the 6’10 or has it made life simpler? 12 surfing waves yesterday....in contrast mine at 1000 freaks was zero, but I still had a blast.
Any comments on the crowd factor? Pics and video make it seem pretty reasonable....
Sharon,
8.6 and 6.10 are plenty enough. The only frustrating factor is that I can't take both with me because they say that it's dangerous to leave a board in the truck... damn trucks!
So, I have to decide in advance which one to take with me.
The good thing is that they're both amazing boards and I love them both.
Hey, if you didn't catch any wave and had a blast nonetheless, you're the best surfer on earth!
At least the one with the best attitude! :)
Michael,
pics and video are a bit deceiving. It was crowded, like around 30 people. But the take off area is very wide in that spot, so they were quite spread. In that session I only caught 4 waves. Partly because it was my second of the day (third if we count the windsurfing one) and my arms were a bit "soft", partly because of the crowd.
Everyone super friendly though. One idiot on a shortboard without a leash(I hate people who don't use a leash!) that almost hit me, a couple of beginners/intermediate out of place (and control), but no aggro yet.
Haven't surfed Bowls yet...
cammer, nice to see you have great 'Holidays'
think next time you have to come to brittany, so we can share some waves and food (posted today also a idea of waves we got)
keep an eye on our blog
www.hot-trips.blogspot.com
all the best,david
That was a long ride! Sweet, see you soon - we'll be "visiting"!!
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