Thursday, March 18, 2021

Thursday 3 18 21 morning call

This is another spot that was going off on Saturday, the first day of the big north swell. Kai Lenny, probably towed into this beauty. Photo by John Patao.

6am Surfline significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore

0.8ft @ 15s from 215° (SW)

Lanai shows almost a foot 15s from unidentified source, but the webcam doesn't. Check the Lahaina or Kihei webcams if interested, for size, conditions and consistency.

North shore
4ft @ 12s from 351° (N)

3.7ft @ 13s from 340° (NNW)


7.3ft @ 9s from 20° (NNE)
3.7ft @ 12s from 334° (NNW)

The buoys are back with the pleasant surprise of Waimea back in the mix. Today I'm pretty late (and I will be until I get my car back), so I'll take the opportunity to illustrate the difference between the Surfline buoy readings and the much graphically fancier Pacioos info below.
The top graph on the left is the observations and forecast of the significant wave height, which is the result of the sum of all the energies in the water at that point. At 6am, it reads: 9ft 9s from 25. But the energy spectrum plot on the right shows two red blobs of dominant energies, one between 30 and 45 and the other centered around 345.
So it is actually possible to extrapolate what's in the water out of those graphs. But I prefer the Surfline buoys because they do the extrapolation job for you. Not sure what kind of algorithm they use, but I've been using it for years and find it pretty reliable (although with some exceptions, like today's Lanai reading) and much simpler to read: 7.3ft 9s from 20 plus 3.7ft 12s from 334. Based on that, my home guess for Hookipa is around head and a half and a bit stormy.

Wind map at noon. The other ones can be found here (click on animation of the 10 meter column).

Fetches map
(circles legend: red: direct aim, blue: angular spreading, black: blocked) from Windy.
North Pacific
(about 4 days travel time from the NW corner of the North Pacific):

South Pacific
(about 7 days travel time from east/west of New Zealand):

Morning sky.

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