Tuesday, March 24, 2015

3 14 15 morning call

Yesterday I surfed: Hookipa early morning, Honolua mid morning, Lahaina mid afternoon.

Honolua was waist high and gorgeous. You could see the reef from the cliff and all its little channels. Unfortunately it doesn't really show in this photo below, but I drew a line to mark it and you can see how the waves peel across it (specially at the cave) when its big.
The reason I did that is that during the Hookipa session I had a feeling of how gusty and offshore the wind would have been and I didn't want to have anything to do with it.

The session in Lahaina was by byself in waist high waves. The south swell was showing 1f 18s and without the surfline buoys I would have probably never known about it. This morning's Lanai buoy graph is below. It's reading 2.6ft @ 17s from 191° (SSW), so it should be a really good day on the south shore.
Nonetheless, let me share my rule about south swells. Unless it's 4f and more than 15s, never ever under any circumstances get excited about a south swell. Maui has too many limiting factors (the main one being the shadowing of Kahoolawe).
If you're curious to see the fetch that generated this swell, check the last Tuesday post and the ones after that.

Wind map shows the two fetches we saw yesterday, the closer of which got stronger and it's the one that will send us a moderate NW swell on Thursday. In the meantime, the north shore it's going to be extremely small (probably flat tomorrow), and that's because of the trade wind generating high pressure that has blocked the NW swell producing storms for the past couple of days.
One more reason not to get too excited about the wind.
The Pauwela buoy is reading
3ft @ 9s from 41° (NE)
2.2ft @ 11s from 347° (NNW)
2ft @ 5s from 70° (ENE)
so it's not quite dead yet.
Notice also the lovely lack of wind around the islands that will last till tomorrow afternoon, before the onshore wind will come in after the passage of the front. I don't think the Thursday is going to be clean at all because of that.

That's what I had in the car: didn't get to use the SUP, but I used three different surfboards and two gallons of water for the showers. I know, I'm overly proud of the board rack I installed in my car by removing the back seats.

Have fun on the south shore, 'cause that's where you want to be today (and tomorrow).

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