As I wrote in the report, the size was fun (head high with frequent overhead sets), but the shape was poor because of the wind and the windswell. When the conditions are poor, the crowd is thin, so I had fun anyway. What a contrast with the day before's session at Honolua... pretty much the opposite: perfect waves and tons of people.
"Don't you get bored of always surfing?", both my father and my nephew once asked me...
"No. It's never the same..." was my easy answer.
Lots of rain today.
Let's start right from that with the 6am satellite picture.
Here's the 7am rain radar instead. Pretty intense.
Here's NW and Pauwela buoys showing healthy sizes windswells and a bit of NW groundswell.
I put an arrow on the two corresponding places of the last one and traces how I think it's going to build in Maui: very little. The windswell will be totally predominant, even with that short period, but you should be able to see long NW lines here and there.
Once again, a very good example of how much better the sufline buoys are. Below in fact is the Pauwela readings are read on the NOAA site. As you can see, there's no way to find out that there is a small NW 16s ground swell. Completely hidden.
That's why I'm so bummed that the Waimea and Lanai buoys disappeared by their page. Anyone feels like emailing them about it too? Thanks.
This is the NOAA readings of the Lanai buoy. There should be a tiny south swell (remember, we talked about it a week ago... the one directed to central America and that we were only gonna get the angular spreading...).
2f 14s could be fun, but it's not 2f! That's the sum of all the energy of all the periods in the water hitting that buoy at that time. The south swell is probably less than 1.5f.
This tables are useless.
Anyway, big windswells can be fun, the problem, as often in Maui, will be the wind.
This is a really bad forecast from windguru: a week on northerlies... who likes that?
Wind map shows not particularly exciting fetches and that High-Low combo that will blow air from the north for quite a while.
Don't have pain in the rain!
PS. All the sources for this post are permanently linked in the links section on the right of this blog.
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