Monday, March 09, 2015

3 9 15 morning call

Fun double surf sesh yesterday. More today. As I said, I dig the waves from the north...
Something interesting happened at the NW and Pauwela buoy. Here's the graphs of both.
Yesterday's reading where I put the red line would have been around 7f 10s.
Today's 6am readings (sorry, not the ones reported in the photo, but in the meantime they've been updated) instead are:
5.1ft @ 12s from 351° (N)
4ft @ 9s from 23° (NNE)
3ft @ 10s from 358° (N)
So you might think it went down, but I don't think it did. The waves at sunset were quite bigger than in the morning and the forecast is for an up trend.
Assuming all the readings are correct (which I kinda doubt), it will be interesting to find out the size of the waves this morning when the sun comes out. Sorry about the confusion, this is the first time that the surfline break down in swell of different period seems to be a little deceiving.
I think today it's gonna be bigger than yesterday.

That's what I wrote originally when the 5am reading was 4f 11s. Now that I read 5f 12s, yes you can expect that 5f 12s will possibly generate bigger waves than 7f 10s, so I'm not too puzzled anymore. The effect of the period in the way the waves grow when they hit a shallow bottom is something that deserves an entire post. A long one actually... maybe one day.

Wind map shows the two lows (with their fetches) that will merge and generate the big swell that will hit Friday. Surfline calling for 13s 14s from 330. Seems a bit exaggerated looking at the maps, I'm guessing the prediction will go down, but it will still be a sizeable one. I like the non super long period. Despite the magic feel of 17+ seconds, a shorter period opens up more spots.
Winds will be light northerly with no wind related sports activity. Wax your surfboard you guys!

I always put the motto "Have fun in the sun everyone!" at he end, let's see if we're gonna see something today.
Looks like we are right at the edge of a big band of clouds, but not quite out of it yet like Kauai and Oahu. Wonna feel bad because those two islands will have better weather? You can if you want!

But I would recommend instead to look at the Big Island which seems to be getting pummeled with rain. Could be better or worse. Always. Depending on which situation you focus on, that makes you happy or unhappy. Sorry, little philosophy slip here.

PS. All the sources for this post are permanently linked in the links section on the right of this blog.

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