Tuesday, December 07, 2021

Tuesday 12 7 21 morning call

This awesome stretch of high quality waves continued and yesterday was no exception. I used four different boards at four different spots in the last four days. The knowledge of where to go and the versatility to ride different boards in different waves is a key part of my enjoyment of surfing.


Quiver is a wonderful word. It applies to wetsuits too. They don't dry in the wet weather, no problem, plenty more in the bucket.


Hookipa was a 9.5 in the morning and still excellent at sunset (pictured below).

John Patao posted this photo of Nathan Florence riding what was probably the best looking spot last Sunday in Maui. Convenient extremely short jet ski ride from the harbor.

4am Surfline significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore
Barbers
2ft @ 12s from 193° (SSW)

Check the Lahaina webcam if interested, for size, conditions and consistency. Still plenty wrap from the north mixed with southerly energy from the Kona flow at sunset yesterday. Looks like head high to me.

North shore
NW001
9.5ft @ 12s from 25° (NNE)

N
4.6ft @ 12s from 14° (NNE)

Hanalei
8.2ft @ 13s from 10° (N)

Waimea
5.8ft @ 13s from 3° (N)

N to NNE energy continues, bigger to our west. Below is the map of Dec 5th that shows the fetch that generated it. The part of it that had winds directly aimed to Maui was so small that I deemed it completely of the angular spreading kind (blue circle).


Hard to know how big it is in Maui without Pauwela (btw, I had some inside info that it could be back on duty before Christmas), but it should be a bit less than Waimea. Only 4.6ft 12s (compared to the NW buoy) seems to confirm that. Nonetheless, it will be another awesome day of surfing on the north shore, thanks to the lack of wind in the morning (even though, you never know with those bursts of wind that go with the rain moving... we're still under a front). Home guess for Hookipa is for head to head and half.

---7.45am update----
Even the best wind prediction model can be totally wrong in the presence of an active front. 8am prediction on the left, reality check on the right.



Forecast of Pauwela from this PACIOOS page.


Wind map at noon
. The other ones can be found here.


Fetches map
(circles legend: red: direct aim, blue: angular spreading, black: blocked, yellow: possibly over the ice sheet) from Windy.

North Pacific (about 4 days travel time from the NW corner of the North Pacific):


South Pacific
(about 7 days travel time from east/west of New Zealand):


Morning sky.



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