A longboard and a shortboard session for me yesterday. Slightly bumpy in this occasion, but the waves on the south shore is still a lot higher quality than the average day at Hookipa.
For me, that results in better surfing and more fun.
Surfing different boards and doing different disciplines is a key fact of my relationship with the ocean and its waves.
3am significant buoy readings
3.7ft @ 15s from 156° (SSE)
4.6ft @ 14s from 159° (SSE)
3.9ft @ 14s from 184° (S)
3.8ft @ 15s from 180° (S)
4.3ft @ 15s from 183° (S)
Yet another day of 4f 15s kinda energy, I'll take it!
1.1ft @ 15s from 311° (NW)
2.3ft @ 11s from 332° (NNW)
2.4ft @ 11s from 340° (NNW)
Love the buoy readings today. Here's why.
The outer NW buoys don't register any energy from the new NW swell predicted to arrive later today, while the local ones do. That is because the first ones are exposed to and "overwhelmed" by the higher energy of the south swell, while the latter are protected from that by the island to which they "belong". Not only that, but they show two different periods associated with the two different fetches present on the map of Oct 19. Below is the collage of the maps of Oct 19, 20, 21 and 22, but I would recommend to read Pat Caldwell's explanation first (in Italic below). So, swell on the rise today (specially in the afternoon), the waves should be bigger tomorrow according to Surfline.
A fast-moving low pressure steered east by the zonal jet passed the Date Line 10/20 along 50N and moved east of the Hawaii swell window 10/22. The head of the fetch stayed beyond 1800 nm away. Surf is predicted to trend up locally Tuesday from 315-330 degrees from the portion generated near the Date Line 10/19-20. Size should pick up a notch Wednesday from 320-350 degrees from when the source was closest to Hawaii east of the Date Line 10/21-22.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific has a decent elongated (it's almost two distinct fetches) NW fetch. 5f 11s predicted by Surfline on Friday.
South Pacific has ultimately surrendered to the course of things and now the remaining of the last of the strong fetches is aiming at South America. Not sure we'll get some angular spreading off that one. Probably not.