Saturday, November 11, 2017

Saturday 11 11 17 morning call

A shortboard and a longboard session for me yesterday, the harbor jetty was doing its magic thing.

Bodyboarding extraordinaire Jacob Romero is already smiling...

...because he eyed the section to do this.

There were some bombs.

The step didn't let him in and this guy got the wipeout of the day.

Bruddah Chris aiming at buoy n.8.

There was way too much juice for foiling for me, Jason tried but then turned to his hand slider. Not having regular surfboards in their cars is a mistake that most of the foilers are doing, IMO. With foiling you increase opportunities and spots. But if you don't have your other boards with you, you actually reduce them.

This is Honolua Bay (looks like Subs), which obviously had some waves.

The wrap of the NNE swell was actually pretty big down the upper west side coast (S-turns easily head and a half). I had a surf guide customer and we ended up at Launiupoko where there were some head high sets. This is a photo that I sent her to show her that she should have done a bottom turn where the arrow is and shoot down the line on the steep wall. The lady with the orange shorts was definitely in her way though.

Meanwhile, the Aloha Classic final day had a late start since when the clouds finally cleared only around 2pm. Conditions looked much more difficult than what the picture below shows. Photo by Si Crowther from this gallery. They didn't manage to finish the contest though. 8 guys and 4 ladies will battle it out today. If on, there should be a live webcast here.

3am significant buoy readings
South shore

No southerly energy readings at the outer buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1.8 11s and 1.2f 15s. Plus there might still be some wrap of the NNE swell.

North shore
5.9ft @ 14s from 18° (NNE)
4.4ft @ 10s from 17° (NNE)

5.5ft @ 13s from 15° (NNE)                      
3.1ft @ 11s from 13° (NNE)
The swell did exactly what predicted by the WW3 model, as shown in the graphs of the two reported buoys below. Today there will be two main periods (red arrows) in the water and that will make the breaking pattern less clean, but still plenty energy on the north shore. There were no 10's yesterday either, I was told, too much water moving, too much current. High consistency is not always a good thing.

Yesterday the clear sky allowed the wind to increase a bit around 2pm yesterday, but the other problem was the direction. As shown in the graph below, it was more onshore than expected (red circle).

Wind map at noon shows light easterly trades. This model was wrong yesterday, since it showed again light trades from an original easterly direction (the area in the red circle), while instead it ended up being much more northerly than that and so didn't get amplified by the Haleakala much. Let's hope for the contest that doesn't happen again today. But even more than that, let's hope for no clouds/rain.

North Pacific shows two small WNW fetches and a bigger NNE one of which we should get some angular spreading.

South Pacific shows only a tiny fetch N of New Zealand.

Morning sky.


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