Monday, May 21, 2018

Monday 5 21 18 morning call

A shortboard and a longboard session for me yesterday. This is the first spot I surfed.

I passed on the foiling, but conditions looked fun.

And that's how good 30 knots of offshore wind make Thousand Peaks look. Unfortunately you can't really surf it like that, but if you're lucky/patient enough, sometimes you can find a temporary lull in the wind and score short, uncrowded, really good sessions.

3/4am significant buoy readings
South shore

3.3ft @ 14s from 194° (SSW)

2.4ft @ 14s from 175° (S)

3.2ft @ 15s from 152° (SSE)

South swell slowly coming down in period, yesterday probably saw the biggest sizes in the water. Some spots like shorter periods though, so I just like the whole cycle of the rise and fall of a swell. Plenty waves on tap also today for the south facing shores of this wonderful island that humans call Maui.

North shore
6.8ft @ 9s from 77° (ENE)
2.4ft @ 5s from 63° (ENE)
1ft @ 13s from 325° (NW)
Below is the graph of Pauwela together with the Surfline forecast. Fortunately I figured a way to have the indication of the day on top of the three days without having to read the absurdity of their automatically generated "generic" wave face forecast. As you can see, most of the energy today will be provided by the easterly windswell, with the addition of a low medium period NW swell. I drew a red line to connect its indication on the buoy graph (light green) and the forecast (light blue). The 11s energy that was in the water yesterday seems to have disappeared, but it might be a temporary buoy thing. Also notice the orange line towards the end of the period. That is a swell that will come from the fetches happening right now (check map below) and is predicted to reach around 3f 14s on Wednesday/Thursday.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific keeps showing nice little NW fetches in addition to the trades' windswell one. Pretty good May for the wind propelled wave riders so far.

South Pacific shows a very intense fetch SW of the Tasman Sea. I'm going to Fiji tomorrow and that's a bit scary.

Morning sky.

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