Sunday, December 11, 2016

12 11 16 morning call

The usual couple of sessions yesterday, both excellent thanks to the excellent conditions.

No action shots, here's a shot from last year of Tatiana by Jimmie Hepp. I'd like to see the shot the water photographer got through the water.

4/5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No southerly energy recorded by the buoys, check the webcam to assess the degree of flatness on that side.

North shore
5.7ft @ 11s from 21° (NNE)                             
2.7ft @ 15s from 310° (WNW)

3.4ft @ 10s from 2° (N)           
1.3ft @ 17s from 315° (NW)
2.6ft @ 9s from 353° (N)
2.3ft @ 11s from 1° (N)
1.9ft @ 12s from 355° (N)
1.4ft @ 16s from 317° (NW)

Pauwela 4am
4.1ft @ 10s from 2° (N)
0.9ft @ 18s from 323° (NW)
Pauwela 5am
2.8ft @ 10s
2.1ft @ 8s from 84° (E)
2.1ft @ 12s from 353° (N)
0.9ft @ 18s from 320° (NW)
One more day all'insegna (sorry, this Italian saying does not have a proper English translation... literally it would be "to the sign". Not nice, but hopefully you understanf what it means) of the N swell.
The 4am reading at Pauwela shows it at 4f 10s, while the 5am ones are more like 3f 10s plus 2f 12s. Either way, it's still gonna be another day of relatively small and clean waves and that is totally fine with me.

There's also a long period WNW (310 degrees at the NW buoy) swell coming from one of those distant Kamchatka fetches, but the numbers are pretty small. Once in a while, there will be some long NW lines, but most of the energy will be provided by the N peaks.
Because longer periods feel the bottom more deeply, when they hit a reef (unless the whole reef is shaped like an A), they tend to manifest themselves as long straight lines more than shorter periods, that will instead create more peaks on the nooks and crannies of the same reef.
The Waimea buoy is back online and we are grateful for that.

Lots of people complaining on the social media about the recent "ugly" Maui weather. You won't hear that on this blog, since the clouds (and related rain) have been key part of the lack of wind lasting all day. Wetsuits not drying out quickly is the only drag, but it's a sweet price to pay for such cleanness. My caught to missed wave ratio went up at least 20%. So much easier to read where to be, so much easier to effectively catch a wave without having to deal with the surprise bump that unexpectedly pops up underneath your board. I'm getting spoiled.

Looks like the band of clouds moved north of us (5.30am photo), so today shouldn't be as rainy. Looks like it might even be sunny actually, but don't rely on my words for that. Wind and waves is all I claim a bit of knowledge of.


Current wind map shows a decent, but distant NW fetch, a tiny closer one and the usual (been there for four days) small but close N one. Also a well positioned, but small fetch E of New Zealand that will possibly get rid of the total flatness on the south shore in a week.

NAM3km map at noon shows that lovely southerly flow that has blessed us all this week. Notice how the wind turns NW (onshore) just east of Hookipa, so I'll make sure to check the MC2km (link n.17) maps when they get updated to have a more precise local wind prediction and time my sessions right.

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