I had an extremely busy day, since I managed to fit in: 3 sessions, a nap, a laundry and a very interesting lecture by Irminne Van Dyken MD. The title was: “Immunonutrition: The Interrelatedness of Diet, Nutrition, the Immune System, the Microbiome, Telomeres, and Longevity.”. The talk will be available soon on the Vegetarian Society of Hawaii website. Highly recommended.
Here's one of Maui's slabbiest waves in a remarkable photo by John Patao. For some reason, that place scares the hell out of me. I'd rather paddle out at Jaws than there.
I'm quite proud to have caught Clay Marzo inside the barrel of this other slabby setup. He was out there by himself (with a water photographer, of course).
The inside wasn't that light either.
4am significant buoy readings
South facing buoys are overwhelmed by the NW energy, check the Lahaina webcam for the south shore report.
18.4ft @ 12s from 356° (N)
5.9ft @ 9s from 11° (NNE)
11.2ft @ 11s from 338° (NNW)
The massive numbers at the NW buoy are easily explained by looking at the current wind map two pictures below: it is in front the strongest fetch of winds of the low that formed yesterday just NW of us. Pretty much where the number 2 is. Most of that energy is missing Maui to the west at the moment, (fortunately, I'd say!). Oahu is more west than us, so it is getting more of that as the Waimea reading shows.
Btw, I also replaced link n.0 with a shortcut to the map with the position of the Hawaii buoys, for quick reference.
Lots of stuff in the water then, you might want to keep an eye on the ocean, because the onset of the big, rough, closely generated NW swell will be quite sudden. In the meantime, I'm gonna focus my spot search on the remaining energy from the NE that reads 6.4ft @ 12s from 51° at 4am at Pauwela.
1) this fetch was much better oriented yesterday, so not much wave generation for us today. Not that we need more of that at the moment...
2) the culprit for this afternoon's steep rise of rough surf that is hopefully going to look relatively clean only thanks to the Kona wind
3) the remnants of the fetch that generated the actual NE swell. Thank you dear for that, I absolutely loved it
4) a non particularly well oriented fetch down south