Later in the morning and until about 5pm a light sideon breeze picked up and ruined the shape a bit. That thinned out the crowd, but at sunset it was packed.
This is Sean Ordonez on a short shape of his. Photo by Jimmie Hepp out of this gallery.
4am significant buoy readings
1.7ft @ 12s from 216° (SW)
3.8ft @ 11s from 6° (N)
Current wind map shows the fetch in the NW corner that we also saw yesterday. It's going to move up and stop making waves for us soon and it looks a lot like the fetch that made the current NW swell that I just illustrated above. As a result, the resulting swell next week should be very similar in size, direction and consistency. Similar, but not exactly the same. They never are and that is a blessing because thanks to that, surfing is never repetitive. I have a hard time explaining that to my dad: "don't you get bored of doing always the same thing?"
Obviously, he never surfed.
NAM3km map at noon shows again the annoying tradish breeze which is not good for anything, really. But I'll take it better than 20 knots.
As I wrote many times, I absolutely loved the book Barbarian Days and I had no problem spending $28 (I'm notoriously extremely frugal) to go listen to a speech of the author William Finnegan a few days ago at the MACC. I also wanted to ask him a question that was haunting me since I read the Fiji chapter of the book:
Him and a buddy were exploring waves in Fiji and somehow managed to find out that someone else just discovered this amazing left hander right in front of a uninhabited small island called Tavarua. They hired some fishermen that reluctantly take them there and camped on it in absolute solitude for weeks.
My question was:"I understand that as long as Restaurants was working, you guys didn't have any interest of exploring anything else, but in the flat spells didn't you feel like checking out Cloudreak? I couldn't believe it doesn't even get mentioned in the book!"
The disappointing answer was:"we couldn't see it!"
And my reply (still hanging tight on the microphone that the usher wanted to take away from me):"what about Pools in Namotu, it's right in front!"
"We couldn't see it either".
Well, at least my curiosity was satisfied. The speech was short and the rest of the time was dedicated to a long Q&A session. I left early after I realized that he was more interested in answering political questions (he works for the New Yorker and has travelled the world as a journalist) than surfing questions.
Here's a 5 minutes video of Mr. Finnegan reading a pass from his book. It's a pass that describes his experience surfing Honolua Bay in the 70's. To understand it better, you need to know that prior to that pass, he had a board shaped by Les Potts as a gift from his girlfriend Karen. Potts seemed to do more what he thought was going to work, rather than listening to Finnegan's inputs. Finnegan was able to finally do some changes when the board got in the hands of the glasser (a guy called Mike).