After work I went to Honolua Bay to witness the arrival of the first sets of the new swell and I took the photos below. Well, the plan was also to surf them, but the set arrival frequency was low (as you would expect with a remotely generated swell) and the people in the water greatly outnumbered the number of waves. Don't be fooled by the photos that only show one surfer, the number of blatant drop ins was ridiculous.
I have a healthy disregard for all man made calendar dates, but this one is not. Today is the astronomical winter solstice, the shortest day of the year for the northern hemisphere.
The humans still managed to screw it up by deciding to make it the START of the winter. That cracks me up because, as the picture below shows, it is instead exactly the MIDDLE of the winter. It's the shortest day of the year, how can it not be right in the heart of it?
As such, I'm not a big fan of it. It means we have actually rounded the buoy and we're now going to start sailing towards spring and summer. Too early to start panicking yet, we have plenty more wintery swells and sessions ahead. Usually the panic for me starts in April, but yeah, I won't be too happy that tomorrow the daylight will last a little bit longer.
4am significant buoy readings
Nothing at the buoys, check the webcams.
6.9ft @ 14s from 335° (NNW)
5.5ft @ 15s from 331° (NNW)
So plenty waves on tap, also because of the other energies in the water, but the 15s NW one will be the predominant. At 7f Hookipa is at least double over head (DOH), happy spot searching!
"Are those feet at the buoys the so called Hawaiian feet?", I got asked lately. Not at all. Those are precise measurements of real swells in the water and, unlike the Hawaiian scale, they are always associated with a period and a direction. The Hawaiian scale is totally imprecise, unscientific and extremely confusing and as such I can promise you I am never going to use it.
I much prefer to use body parts instead, in that way it's clear that I mean the actual face of the breaking waves, because nobody rides on the back of a wave! That is, until Kai Lenny comes up with a way to do that...
1) this is a brand new one associated with a brand new low. It's going to evolve nice and strong and Surfline posts a peak of 12f 15s on Sunday night for its related swell
2) remnant of the fetch that generated today's swell
4-5) too weak to really do something for us
NAM3km map at noon shows easterly trades.
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Click the banner on the right to get to their website.