Monday, December 21, 2015

12 21 15 morning call

Yesterday I decided to escape the windy and squally weather of the north shore and went to spend my day with a good book on a beach in Kihei. It was lovely. Amazing the difference of climate you can find on the other side of the mountain.

Of course I did that because I'm still injured, otherwise I would have found fun things to do on the north shore, but the fact that I couldn't find a Maui action shot means that the action wasn't easy to find by most people. What I did find is this amazing photo from photographer Marco Mora that shows an exceptionally big swell in Tarifa (Spain).

At 5am Pauwela reads:
9.1ft @ 9s from 60° (ENE)
4.8ft @ 13s from 359° (N)
3ft @ 4s from 77° (ENE)

The windswell is still going strong, but it's surprising to see 5f 13s of that north swell I called yesterday. That number is twice as big than what Surfline forecasted, and that shows that sometimes the wave models do make mistakes.
It's also twice as big as the Waimea reading and there's no sign of it at the Hanalei one, which confirms the angular spreading nature of it, with the bulk of the swell missing us to the east. Check the fetches I highlighted in yesterday's post, if you didn't see it.

Today's map shows:
- a good fetch in the nw corner. It has been there already for a few days and today we're supposed to receive the long period forerunners of the related swell, but there's no sign of it yet at the NW buoy. Probably tomorrow for that one.
- the windswell fetch. This is one of the most stubborn high pressures I can remember. It seems that it's gonna let go a bit only towards the end of the year.
- not one, but two fetches down south!

The wind should be cranking again and the rain is hitting hard on my window as I type at 6am. Might end up in Kihei again...
Check later for the MC2km map.

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